I need help repairing my bike.

My bike won't run / My battery is good, but when I turn on the ignition I get no power.

Jeb - Mon Feb 21 03:13:25 2000

This is probably because of a blown main fuse. This 30 amp fuse is found in the starter solenoid unit next to the fuse box.

When I try to start my bike I hear a chattering noise.

Greg - Tue Mar 28 12:47:43 2000

Most likely there is just enough juice left in the battery to actuate the starter relay but not enough to turn the motor itself. That is your clicking noise. This happens to cars too. Also check that the screws holding the cables on to the battery are snug. If the battery and its connections are okay then try this: Get someone more mechanically knowledgeable to carefully stick a screwdriver across the starter relay main leads; don't touch the metal part of the screwdriver though. If the motor turns

over fine then have them check the starter button itself. If the contacts in the starter button itself are blackened/corroded clean them off. I have seen this happen in other Ninjas. A pencil eraser works well for this. There are many other possibilities but these are three good ones.

My bike tries to start but won't, no matter how much choke I give it.

Duke - Tue Feb 29 14:32:49 2000

It's possibly flooded; mine has done this also. Floods on a warm day with too much choke, and then turns over but doesn't start. After cranking for a few seconds, it will sometimes sputter just a bit and a bluish-white smoke will come out of the pipe, but still won't start.

Try cranking a couple times in 5 second bursts with no throttle. Then, as you are cranking, hold the start button and simultaneously add choke slowly until it fires (when mine does this, it starts up with maybe 1/2 choke; any more/less and it wont start). Be careful you are not running your starter for more than about 15 seconds at a time or you may damage it.

On warm days I normally crank it for a second or two with no choke and no throttle to clear any raw fuel sitting in there before adding choke (it usually starts with no choke if it's over 70 degrees).

If you are still having problems, you may want to take a closer look at your choke plungers. Make sure they aren't sticking. Also check your float valves to make sure your float bowls aren't overflowing, which may also flood your engine.

My bike tries to start but won't, and I see white smoke coming from the exhaust.

Leon - Wed Apr 26 06:16:39 2000

The white smoke indicates that water is getting in the engine, which means water could be in your fuel tank. The reserve fuel comes from the same tank as the main, but the reserve comes from a lower level. The main setting takes fuel from about 2 inches above the bottom of the tank, reserve takes fuel from the very bottom. Water is heavier than gasoline. If you have 1/2 inch of water in the bottom of your fuel tank, it will never get into the carbs if you never use reserve. When you switch to the reserve setting, the water will immediately flow into the carbs.

I try not to add fuel to the tank until after it gets to reserve. This way the water is removed from the tank regularly. The down side to this method is that it ends up in the carbs.

Another method is to drain the fuel tank regularly. This would be a better method because it will remove all the water and sludge so that when reserve is used only gasoline gets to the carbs. This method requires more work. I do it once when I get the bike (all of them need this; I don't buy new bikes).

The water problem occurs more often in bikes that sit in the rain.

My bike starts initially, but the carbs flood very soon thereafter.

Leon - Thu Apr 27 10:12:45 2000

Gas pouring out the overflow could mean that you've got a particle of something under one of the float needles. It won't flood when not cranking because the vacuum valve in the petcock won't let fuel flow.

Remove the carbs, tip them upside down, remove the float bowl and then each of the floats and needles. Look for something between the needle and it's seat. Another possibility is damage to the needle tip.

My bike has been sitting for a while, and I can't get it started.

MylittleNinjette - Tue Dec 24 16:33:48 2002

This assumes the bike was running just fine before it sat, and that it sat for months. This also assumes that rodents haven't packed your exhaust pipes full of seeds or nesting. If the bike just sat for a few weeks, odds are that the carb bowls are just empty. In this case if you have a "prime" setting at the petcock, set it to prime and try again, otherwise keep trying to start with the choke at wherever it usually would be and throttle partway open until it fires. So that you don't overheat the starter motor, use the starter in short, controlled bursts of 5 seconds or so, with a 10 second "rest" in between.

1. Does the starter crank the engine? If yes, go to 2. If not, then check the battery (eg, signal lights or horn works), and charge if needed. Keep the charger handy in case the battery wears down, or hook your battery up to a car battery (car off). If the battery is OK but the motor won't turn over, then there is either a starter problem (like it isn't getting power), or the motor is seized (and this would take years of sitting). Put the bike in gear and see if you can turn the motor by turning the rear wheel (grunt). If the wheel turns, then the motor is free and the starter is the likely problem.

2. The battery and starter are OK, so if you have starter fluid, try using it; if not, go to 3. Starter fluid is a quick and easy check if everything but the fuel/carbs are OK. Spray the fluid into the carb openings (read the can), downstream of the air filter, and try starting again. If it fires up, then you just need to drain the carb bowls and try fresh gas, see 4.

3. Check for spark. Put the starter fluid can away. Reach under the gas tank and pull one of the spark plug wires, with cap, out of the head. This is kind of a pain, but quick enough and thus worth it to do, especially if your bike sat in the damp. Plug a spare spark plug into the cap, hold the plug threads against bare metal of the bike. If you don't have a spare plug, put a metal screwdriver shaft down in the cap, and put some part of the metal shaft up close to bare metal, like 1/8" (3 mm) away. Grab the screwdriver with a glove or rag if you don't want a little shock yourself. Hit the starter button. If you don't see a spark, then there is some problem with the ignition, likely a short somewhere. If you do see spark then the problem is definitely with the fuel or carbs. Put the spark plug wire and cap back on the plug in the head and go to 4.

4. Drain and re-fill the carb bowls. Condensed water and dried fuel varnish can plug up the works enough to keep the bike from starting, although it often will at least sputter. There is an allen head screw under the carb that will let fuel drain out that little nipple under the carb (put a cup or some-such under there to catch the gas). If the gas in the tank is older than a year, drain the tank and put fresh gas in. Now put the petcock to "prime" if you have that setting, and try starting again. It will take some cranking of the engine for the gas to refill the carb bowls, so give it 10 tries. If it doesn't start, go to 5.

5. Clean the spark plugs, or put new ones in if you have them. It's such a pain to get at the plugs that I would definitely leave this to late in the operation, and I'd even go out and buy starter fluid first, but still, it's easier than cleaning the carbs. If the bike still won't start, with good spark, starter fluid or fresh gas, and clean plugs, then pull the carbs and clean them.

My battery is dead; how do I push-start my bike?

Leon - Wed Jun 7 13:48:36 2000

The bike won't roll very well when it's in gear, the drag from the wet clutch and transmission is very noticeable.

1. Get the bike rolling with the transmission in neutral, the clutch pulled in, the ignition and engine cut-off switch on.

2. Stand up from the seat then simultaneously drop to the seat as you press down into first and release the clutch. Dropping to the seat will give the rear tire the extra traction it needs to get the engine rolling.

My battery is dead; how can I bring it back to life?

Jake - Tue Jan 2 13:39:43 2001

1. Charge the battery after disconnecting and removing it. You may have a current-leak on the bike somewhere.

2. Check that the leads are on correctly. (I know you didn't hook it up wrong... but you'd be surprised.)

3. If the charger has a voltage switch, set it to 12V.

4. Try a different charger if you have access to one.

5. If the battery has removable fill-caps, add distilled water to the fill-line.

6. If the battery has removable fill-caps and adding water does not improve it's ability to charge and hold a charge, buy an electrolyte checker. Follow the instructions. This device checks the acid content (and hence the ability to take a charge) of the water in the individual cells.

7. If the battery does not have removable fill-caps, you're done. Get a new one. In general, check the voltage after you unplug and disconnect the charger. Shouldn't make a difference, but you want to eliminate all but one variables in testing.

My engine is running poorly / My engine lacks power under throttle load.

Duke - Mon Jan 24 22:20:58 2000

Make sure there's nothing covering the openings to the airbox under the seat. One time I had some maps in a zip-lock bag under the seat. It was cutting out at full-throttle and I couldn't figure out why...well, guess what..that zip-lock bag was over the two holes in the airbox and every time I opened it up the vacuum was sucking the bag down on the airbox and whamo - no air!

Also check:

• Is your choke cable/mechanism working properly on your carbs? The choke may be stuck on.

• Are both spark plugs getting good fire?

• Are your valves adjusted properly?

• Are your carbs synced?

• Have your carbs been cleaned in the past several years?

My engine is backfiring.

Jeb - Thu May 31 19:51:42 2001

If the engine is just popping a little bit as you decelerate, then you're getting preignition. This is caused by a lean mixture condition. Check carbs for vacuum leaks, or richen (raise) the needles or idle mixture (turn out screws).

If the bike is seriously backfiring, then you might still have a lean condition, or maybe even a rich condition (check your choke). This is because a lean mixture can make the engine miss, then the unburnt gasses are ignited in the exhaust pipe on the next cycle; a rich mixture can have the same effect since unburned fuel will also be present...

Check pilot circuits in the carbs, change the spark plugs (make sure to gap them properly), check for exhaust leaks. If all else fails, try a higher octane fuel.

My bike will run for a while, but keeps losing power and dying when I ride it.

Leon - Fri Sep 29 10:48:31 2000

This is tight valves! It dies at low RPMs, but will continue to run if the throttle is opened. Take the bike in and have the valves adjusted (or do it yourself) before you do real damage to the motor.

I think my tire is losing air.

Nosferatu_d - Thu Jan 13 07:47:45 2000

Some things to check first... Obvious is to look for a nail or screw that is still in the tire. Second when you fill the tire with air put a little spit over the valve and see if a bubble forms; it could just be a leaking valve. You can also take an empty squirt bottle, put a couple drops of dish washing detergent in with some water, then spray the area around were the bead of the tire is while the tire is full...it could just be a bad mounting job.

If it is the valve try tightening it; if that won't work the dealer should have no problem replacing it. If it is a leak around the rim again take it to the dealer and have them remount the existing tire or mount a new one. If it is a screw or nail then it is better to just replace it then try and patch it; the newer types of tires are very difficult to patch both properly and fully. Either way if you can figure out what the leak is before going to the dealer it will save you some aggravation...

My brakes are not operating normally / There is a pulsing when I apply my brakes.

Terry - Mon Jan 22 16:01:07 2001

Jack up the front wheel. Spin the wheel and look for rubbing. Apply the front brake ever so slightly to see where it touches first. Mark that part of the wheel. There are 6 allen head bolts holding the front rotor to the wheel. Tighten the two or three bolts closest to the spot on the wheel where the rubbing occurred.

If that doesn't fix it, replace the pads. Still no luck have a machine shop resurface the rotor ever so slightly as to not make it too thin. If all else fails replace the rotor.

My brake pads are grinding.

RoadOfTheDevil - Sat Apr 28 22:19:05 2001

It is normal for the pads to drag slightly, especially just after replacing them. Excessive grinding can be caused by having the torque link nut too tight, or having the hex nuts that hold the caliper to the caliper mounting bracket too tight. Be sure to correct this before the rotor warps from being overheated.

My handlebars shudder when I ride / What should I check for this problem?

Gabe846 - Fri May 26 19:34:44 2000

At low speeds, this is normal, but at high speeds, not so much. Here's some things to check:

• Steering head bearings (too tight or loose, or worn out)

• Tire wear or pressure

• Alignment of front and rear wheel

• Bent triple clamps or forks

What if steering head bearings are bad?

Leon - Mon Jul 31 15:01:07 2000

If the bearings are too loose, you get a wobble. If too tight, then when going around a long curve, the bike wants to turn, then straighten and repeat rather than taking a smooth arc. If there's no wobble, then tightening the bearings probably won't make much difference; I've ridden with marginal bearings for quite a while.

To adjust them and look for worn bearings, put the bike on the centerstand, and put something under the engine to get the front wheel off the ground. First, try to move the fork legs forward and back, if there is any movement at all, the steering head bearings are loose.

To tighten them, loosen the top nut that is between the fork legs behind/below the ignition. Under that and under the top clamp is another nut with a slotted head. Use the spanner wrench from the tool kit (or a hammer and punch) to tighten this lower nut one tooth at a time. Tighten the top nut before checking the forks again. I usually loosen the locknut, then tighten the bearings until I can feel a noticeable tightening, then I back off a bit, tighten things back up and go for a test ride.

Once the forward and back movement of the forks is fixed, then you should check for flat spots and over torqueing. Move the handlebars left and right, there should be no difference in the pressure it takes to move them as you go from left to right. Worn bearings will often have a spot right in the middle that the bars want to stay in. Overtightened bearings will not move smoothly.

If you can't find something in between the loose and tight adjustments that feels right, then you need new bearings. The bearings didn't go bad on my bike until about 30K, and that was with the heavy loads I put on it.

My clutch lever rattles when I rev the engine.

Duke - Thu Aug 17 00:40:47 2000

Mine did the same thing, a ringing above 8k. I used a 2-liter Coke bottle and cut a couple shims and slipped in like washers on the clutch lever and it fixed the problem. I'd imagine you could buy some very thin nylon washers at a hardware store that would do the same thing.

Can I ride my bike home if the clutch cable breaks?

Duke - Thu Jul 20 20:38:26 2000

Try pulling the clutch lever in to deactivate the starter cutoff switch. Then hit the starter and the bike will begin rolling as it hopefully fires up. Try this in second gear. Once you have it going you can ride it home. it is possible to shift gears without the clutch if you sharply let off the gas while upshifting, or blip the throttle while downshifting. When you get home hit the kill switch to stop.

Do this very carefully, and remember you can't stop without the kill switch.

I need to fix some accident damage.

I need to realign my forks and front wheel.

Leon - Mon Oct 9 11:38 2000

I've just realigned forks by eye-ball. If they're a little crooked, it doesn't seem to affect the handling much. I just put the bike on the centerstand and loosened the fork bolts slightly. Then from the front, I held the front tire with my legs and twisted the handlebars straight. Then I checked to see if it was straight by straddling the bike and looking at the front tire and bars. After a couple of tries, I got it to where it looked pretty good and just tightened the fork bolts up again. The handlebar caps should keep the forks in about the right place, so it shouldn't be very hard to do this.

I need to repair a cracked fairing.

Robert - Fri Jan 14 11:40:59 2000

I had really broken fairing on an '86. The right turn signal hit the ground and snapped the fairing. I got a tube of putty type marine epoxy at an auto parts place. It says it is good for plastic and will set in any conditions. I formed it to match the hole and sanded it smooth, but I knew I could never get the paint right so I got a Targa upper fairing bra to totally cover it. The repaired patch is probably

stronger than the original plastic. I am by no means a professional at this but with the bra on, you can't tell it was ever damaged. I like that epoxy stuff better than body putty kits, you can just form it like you want like using "play doh."

My bike was wrecked but it wasn't my fault...

Chris - Wed Nov 10 20:01:16 1999

The best thing you can do in this case is take the bike to your local dealer and have them do a damage estimate. They will use factory part numbers and prices. Take the estimate to the insurance company. Do not deal with the person who hit the bike; he is out of the loop now. The insurance company will cut you a check and you can decide what needs to be fixed and what can be overlooked; remember that things like aftermarket levers and signals cost much less than factory parts. Don't forget to make the insurance pay for the damage estimate also. E-mail if you have any questions.

What kind of battery charger can I use?

Jeb - Mon Nov 27 16:57:36 2000

The 'Battery Tender' brand 'Plus' model is a commonly-used charger. It's about $35, but well worth it.

It comes with a harness that you can permanently mount to the bike, so you can plug the bike in when you get home, and be sure to have a fresh battery in the morning. It has a smart circuitry system that will not charge the battery any more once the battery is fully charged, to prevent damage.

I've brought several dead batteries back to life with mine, including the huge battery in my 325i, and the 7 year-old battery in Ede's '94 EX250.